You go up the hill by bus, and come down by foot. At Croix-Rousse, you will find slopes and a plateau. With its silk industry, Croix-Rousse was the first workers' town in France, and that fact still permeates everything there today. Locals have also nicknamed it “the hill that works” – in opposition to its neighbour, “the hill that prays”, topped by the Notre-Dame de Fourvière basilica. Its streets still rustle with the silk-workers' revolts, when workers used the traboules with the courage of the Resistance during the Second World War.
Though Lyon is often referred to as a bourgeois city, Croix-Rousse is its rebellious soul and, today, a laboratory of alternative innovation. Start-ups and incubators have set up in its small buildings, with old workshops now transformed into lofts.
The bars and cafes serve health food, and its galleries exhibit the young talents of comic book makers and illustrators.