Everything is homemade here, from the fries and thick ketchup to the pickles and bread, simultaneously soft and crisp. It's the fragrant smell of bread that invites us to come into this small bistro. Its polished concrete floor, black formica tables, Breuer chairs and bare bulbs hanging from the ceiling signal that this place is about the essentials. For here it is a sandwich of Turkish origin that is king. There are several kinds thanks to Chloé Charles, formerly of the restaurant Septime. Among the choices are lamb enhanced with a pinch of curry, falafel (a chickpea dumpling) or orange caramelised pig slow-roasted on a spit. All served in a Boy Scout-style bowl.
4, rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin