Do not brood over Buda. This side of the Danube offers a quiet charm that is almost bucolic. At the end of the Chain Bridge, the castle has dominated the hill since the 13th century. Transformed by the Habsburgs and rebuilt after World War II, it now houses the Hungarian National Gallery—the largest collection of Hungarian art from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. It also organises temporary exhibitions. Well worth the time, as is the surrounding neighbourhood, classed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. You need to lose yourself in the cobbled streets lined with colourful houses, such as those of Fortuna Street. Now restored, it has become very touristy, sporting a look that is a tad ‘cardboard' but full of charm. The Matthias Church will astonish you with its covered roof of polychrome tiles, as will the Fishermens Bastion, an amazing Neo-Romanesque style ensemble where you can enjoy an aperitif while admiring the beautiful view over Pest.